Italy - Part 1 (Valle d'Aosta and a side trip to the Czech Republic)

Avrai tu l'universo,

Resti l'Italia a me

You may have the universe,

But let Italy remain mine

-from Attila,

Bell' Italia! Italy has Europe's richest, craziest culture. Italy holds a special place in my heart and to celebrate my birthday this year, my awesome man took me back to see more of this amazing country. Back door experience with 4 kids in a tow. Four small carry on suitcases, 4 backpacks, and good walking shoes.

With Rick Steves' Italy guidebook and Fred Plotkin's Italy for the Gourmet Traveler we were ready to explore this history- rich country where English is rare and Italian is the norm. And then there is the food and ....the gelato.

We flew into Milan where we met up with my brother Fanda. Rented a car and drove northwest to Valle d' Aosta - the roof of Europe, a mountainous region par excellence. It is formed by chains of Alps that are snow capped year-round. Much of the region is occupied by the nation's largest natural reserve, Gran Paradiso National Park. And big paradise it is, too. The Romans arrived around 143 B.C. and made their headquarters in Aosta. The city became and remains the most important in the region. The Romans built an arena and aqueducts, the remains of which may still be seen. Yes. Roman ruins in an alpine settings. Quite remarkable. I sure could live there!

We stayed at Agriturismo La Viggni de Crest for a week, a lovely place surrounded by vineyards.

Itálie má bezesporu nejbohatší kulturu v Evropě. A protože mám Itálii hodně ráda a je mi blízká, Tim mi věnoval výlet do Itálie k narozeninám. Čtyři děti, 4 zavazadla, dobré boty a hurá za dobrodružstvím.
V Miláně jsme se sešli s Fandou, pronajali auto a vydali se na severozápad do údolí Valle d 'Aosta, které je vsazeno mezi horské masivy Alp. Většinu údolí pokrývá národní park Gran Paradiso. Římané přišli kolem 143 B.C. a usídlili se ve městě Aosta., které je nejdůležitějším městem v regionu. Římané postavili arénu a akvadukty, jejichž pozůstatky je vidět dodnes. Ubytování jsme měli v Agriturismo La Viggni de Crest - krásné místo obklopené vinicemi.

A cozy cottage with all the modern comfort, including a stove that kept us warm at night.

Útulná chata s veškerým moderním komfortem včetně kamen, ve kterých jsme si navečer zatopili.

A swimming pool, sauna, and Jacuzzi. Only the kiddos were brave enough to swim.

Bazén, sauna a vířivka. Jen děti byly odvážné a vykoupaly se.

Our stay included a sweet and savory breakfast that contained jams, fruit and honey from farm's own production, fresh baked goods and locally made cheeses and cold cuts. Fontina being the most famous. Unique buttery - nutty flavor with a smooth texture. One of the most famous cheese in the Valle d' Aosta, and one of the finest cheeses made in Italy.

Pobyt zahrnoval snídani - marmelády, ovoce a med z vlastní výroby, čerstvé pečivo, místní sýry a uzenina, a v neposlední řadě domácí buchta od paní hostitelky.

Sofia had a lot of fun with our host's dog Lila.

Sofinka se hned skamarádila s pejskem Lilou.

A hike in Grand Paradiso National Park was a real treat! There was plenty of scenic beauty to behold. Alpine flora and fauna. The audible sounds of rushing water, the murmurs of the forest, the tread of our feet. The silence was exhilarating. And the views! God's glory at its best!

Výlet do Národního parku Grand Paradiso byl nádherný zážitek! Pozemský ráj. Alpská fauna a flóra. Ta panorámata!

Yes, I can live here!

On the way from the hike we stopped at Pondel Aquaduct Bridge. This bridge dates back to 3 BC! and commemorates its promoter and owner, Caius Avillius Caimus. The structure included a 1m covered walkway with narrow windows on both walls, accessed at both ends with wooden doors. An open upper canal, with a stone slab base and water-proof walls, allowed the flow of water collected from springs on the left bank of the river. One theory links the aqueduct to the mining and processing of ferrous materials in the Cogne valley. Various modifications indicate a water collection function during the Post Classic period for village inhabitants.

Na cestě z túry jsme se zastavili na mostě Pondel Akvadukt. Tento most pochází z roku 3 před Kristem! Struktura je přístupnou z obou konců. Otevřený horní kanál s kamennou dlažbou a vodotěsnými stěnami umožnil průtok vody z pramenů na levém břehu řeky. Jedna teorie spojuje akvadukt s těžbou a zpracováním železných rud v údolí Cogne.

Medieval castle on every hill.

Středověký hrad na každém kopci.

A bounty of dairy products in the region.

Spousta vynikajících mléčných výrobků v regionu.

Getting raw milk from a vending machine. Imagine this in the USA!

Čerstvé mléko z automatu.

There is a local expression it the Valle d'Aosta: Il formaggio fresco ha tre fondamentali qualita:toglie la fame, la sete e lava I denti. (Fresh cheese has three fundamental qualities: it cuts hunger, it cuts thirst, and washes the teeth.) Local Fontina cheese is melted to make fondue and all sorts of sauces. In fact, anything this cheese is melted on tastes better. The soups, crepes and pastas were excellent at this little restaurant and enriched with fonduta.

Místní sýr Fontina je jedním z nejlepších sýrů v Itálii. Tradičně se z něj dělá fondé, s nímž se pak obohacují polévky, slané palačinky a těstoviny. Dobře jsme si pochutnali v této malé restauraci.

Exploring historical part of Aosta town. Roman ruins, churches, window shopping and tasting local treats. And then there is the gelato.

Po obědě jsme si prohlídli historickou část města Aosta. Římské zříceniny, kostely, a ochutnávka místních lahůdek. A potom samozřejmě zmrzlina.

Our little blond belissima drew a lot of attention among Italians.

Šarlotka se všem moc líbila!

Visiting Roman Theatre in Aosta town.

Prohlídka zřícenin římského divadla v Aostě.

We helped with the grape harvest. It was quite an experience! Family members and friends came to help, old and young, working together in fellowship. A nice potluck lunch after the harvest and we were invited! What a treat! Locally grown ingredients, in season, bought daily, prepared with love, and enjoyed with friends and family.

At approximately 900 meters (2, 800 feet), the vineyards of the Valle d'Aosta are the highest in Europe. The grape growers of this region are called vignerons, and they have learned to grow grapes among stones so that the stones will reflect warmth and light up to the plants.

Vinobraní! Jeden den jsme pomohli hostitelům sklízet hrozny. Byla to hezká, čistá práce. Poté jsme byli pozváni na rodinný oběd. V 900 metrech nad mořem jsou vinice údolí Valle d'Aosta nejvýše položenými vinicemi v Evropě. Vinaři se naučili pěstovat hrozny mezi kameny, které udržují teplo a světlo.

Pressed grapes ready to ferment.

Lisované hrozny připravené k fermentaci.

Valle d' Aosta Valley is full of ancient castles to explore. We visited four of them. It was a cultural week in Aosta during our visit and we got to see all of them for free! What a blessing!

Built in 1710 on the ruins of a fortress mentioned as early as 1242, Sarre Castle was purchased by the King of Italy Victor Emanuel II, who renovated it and used it during his hunting expeditions in Valle d’Aosta. Umberto and Queen Maria José also resided in the castle during their holidays. In 1989 the Region of Valle d´Aosta purchased the estate to renovate it into an Alpine residence and museum marking the presence of the Savoys in the area. Upper rooms are furnished with some of the castle’s original furniture found in the castle. We saw royal apartments, grand games hall and many hunting trophies.

Údolí Valle d' Aosta je plné středověkých hradů, z nichž některé jsou přístupné veřejnosti. V Aostě se zrovna konal kulturní týden, a tak vstup do většiny památek byl zdarma. Navštívili jsme celkem 4 hrady.

Hrad Sarre byl postaven v roce 1710 na zřícenině původního hradu, jehož zmínka pochází už z roku 1242. Hrad zakoupil král Viktor Emanuel II, který jej zrenovoval a využíval převážně k loveckým účelům. V roce 1989 přešel hrad do vlastnictví státu, který jej přestavěl na alpskou residenci s muzeem věnovaným královské rodině Savojců. Horní pokoje jsou vybavené původním nábytkem. Prohlédli jsme si královské pokoje, loveckou halu a spoustu trofejí kozorožců.

Châtel Argent was an Italian medieval castle, in the Alpine town of Villeneuve, but today it is a ruin. Châtel Argent, as with many other castles in the region, overlooks the Dora Baltea River which runs through the Aosta Valley. A nice 15 minute hike with splendid views! Walking off the pasta and gelato.

Châtel Argent byl kdysi středověkým hradem, dnes z něj zbyla pouze zřícenina. Leží v alpském městě Villeneuve nad řekou Dora Baltea, která protéká údolím Aosta. Ke zřícenině vede pěkná a strmá 20ti minutová procházka s nádherným výhledem!

Saying goodbye to our great hosts, David and Emanuela, a great couple! Even though their English was very limited we found ourselves understanding more than we had expected.

A tady už se loučíme s hostiteli, kteří se o nás velmi dobře starali.

On the way back to Milan, we stopped at a couple of nice castles. At the Fenis Castle
we got a glimpse of a hard life at a medieval castle.

Na zpáteční cestě do Milána jsme se stavili na dvou zámcích. Nejdříve jsme navštívili studený hrad Fenis. Život ve středověku asi nic moc a ta zima!

And the Fortress of Bard which we reached using 5 different elevators. Kiddos really enjoyed that. Now a days the fortress is home of museums and exhibitions.

Poté jsme se zastavili na pevnosti Bard, která byla tak opevněná, že jsme museli použít 5 různých výtahů, než jsme se na ni dostali. To se líbilo hlavně dětem! Pevnost dobyl a zničil Napoleon a dnes jsou v ní muzea a výstavní síně.

From Milan we took a side trip to the Czech Republic to visit my parents for three days who were not able to come to Italy due to my mom's back issues. She is doing much better now.

We had a wonderful time! And were so thankful we were able to see them. It was cold and rainy and we spent most of the time indoors playing games and enjoying each other's company.

A tady už jsme doma! To překládat nemusím, že ano? Vždyť jste byli u toho!

Deda took us out for a nice lunch to a local restaurant. The boys got their fried pork Czech style!

Wild boar steaks on a grill.

Always plenty of good homemade food. I love Czech hospitality!

Sweet fellowship. Cannot put a price on those moments!

The children were so happy!

On the way to forest to feed animals.

Děda's svíčková (sirloin roast in cream sauce) and dumplings are the best!

With Auntie Marketa.

Visiting a miniature train museum was a fun activity on a cold, rainy day. We also visited a museum where we learned history of first pilgrims who came to establish a monastery in the area. The best part was a conversation with dad about the beginning of the world. How can something come out of nothing into a perfect order and design? Every masterpiece has its master. Praying he will ponder on this thought. The Lord is good!

Almost the entire family. My other brother Fanda and my nephew Jakub are missing.

Deda took Eli fishing. They caught 8 nice looking trout. Deda fried them for lunch for us. The best fish I ever had! What a treat!

Saying good buy was really hard! Hoping it won't take four and a half years to see each other again!

We drove a couple hours to visit Fanda and see his place. He welcomed us with a nice pot of stewed young roosters, quite a delicacy! He has a nice ranch on the north part of the Czech Republic. He raises lots of animals, including turkeys, pheasants, chickens, rabbits etc. The children got to ride a horse, even little Charlotte surprised us as she was not afraid at all!